The Cheesemonger’s Wife

a woman’s journey into marriage, cheesemaking and everything in between

Cheese of the Week June 4, 2008

Yep…that’s right…it’s CHEESE of the week. And it’s mouthwatering!!! Last night I ate it on some toasted sourdough from 222, spread thick with fresh strawberries on top. good lord, it was downright amazing! It comes from Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro, VT…..Constant Bliss!!!

Constant Bliss is based on a Chaource recipe, which we modified to suit our production schedule and cheesemaking facility. The result is a cheese which hardly even resembles a Chaource. It is a slow ripened lactic curd made only with fresh, right out of the cow, uncooled, evening milk. We actually begin the cheesemaking process before the cows have finished milking. Constant Bliss is made with raw whole milk. This is not a double or triple crème cheese as is sometimes thought. Seasonal variations in the milk result in variations on the surface and flavor of the cheese. We like to use Constant Bliss to highlight our milk, and rather than overpowering the natural microflora of our milk with cotton white mold, we prefer to see a mottling of diverse molds and yeasts, which are prevalent particularly in the summer months when the cows are out on grass. It is aged 60 days before it leaves the farm, and is a ‘sell it or smell it’ item for retailers.

We named Constant Bliss after a revolutionary war scout killed in Greensboro by native Americans in 1781. He was guarding the Bayley Hazen Military Road with his compatriot Moses Sleeper, who died with him.

It’s name it suitable….b/c when you eat it…you are in a state of constant bliss!!!! Very fitting.

 

Lost in Philadelphia April 7, 2008

Filed under: The Cheesemonger, Travel — Annie @ 6:05 am
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sorry for the lack of posts this week. i’ve been in Philadelphia for a conference on work stuff and so i have neglected thee. as soon as I return…you’ll get the play by play of the AMAZING food i have consumed since Friday April 4th. Yum.

Everyone wish the Cheesemonger happy birthday.

 

Simon Says Cheese @ the Kitchen Conservatory March 26, 2008

Filed under: The Cheesemonger, Where I shop, cheese — Annie @ 9:31 am
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Shameless plug…I know.  But I don’t care.  Simon will be doing an intro class on cheese at the Kitchen Conservatory on April 17th.  Please visit www.kitchenconservatory.com to sign up.

you know you want to.  just do it.

http://www.kitchenconservatory.com/Schedule2.htm 

 

Oh…he’s in Ireland but I see his face in my daily newspaper! March 11, 2008

My sweet husband is featured in the PD’s weekly cooking column by Joe Bonwich.

I spoke to him this evening from Maghera. He is loving every minute of it there. He won’t be able to email the videos…so look for some footage of lambing season next week when he returns.

 

One is the loneliest number… March 10, 2008

Filed under: The Cheesemonger, Travel, ireland — Annie @ 8:41 am
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Si leaves for Ireland this afternoon. I miss him already.

 

Mushrooms and Truffles March 5, 2008

If I had to pick one of my favorite winter dishes…and by winter I mean that goofy season in St. Louis falling in the months of February, March and the first part of April….I pick mushrooms with truffles. Yes, yes…truffles are spendy…but worth every shiny nickel. My two favorite truffle mushroom dishes are from right here in St. Louis. The first being at Moxy. Chef Brenner did this amazing starter with polenta, various types of mushrooms and truffles. Geez…it was good and rich enough to have as a main course. Sadly, I haven’t seen it on the menu in a while. It was great with a glass of Malbec (or two). Triangles of grilled polenta made with a rich meaty mushroom stock covered in a fantastic mound of perfectly sauteed wild mushrooms spiked with truffle oil. Made for some good eats.

Last night, we didn’t feel like cooking. And lucky for us our favorite restaurant is in walking distance…almost in our driveway. So, we braved the unploughed back alley of Benton Park and moseyed on over to Niche for dinner. We were the only ones in the joint. Lucky for us. (eventually 2 more tables arrived). Given the state of our fair city, servers were unable to make it in. Lo and behold, Brian the bartender. Brian stepped up to the plate and not only worked the bar but served all the tables…and he did it amazingly well!!! It was a great night to dine at Niche. Quiet, relaxed and terribly fun.

Simon had the tasting menu and I had the prie fixe. The chef’s tasting menu is just too much for me on a Tuesday night. Si is a big boy and can handle it! We both started with the cauliflower soup-served two ways. I had the traditional soup, served with warm apples and walnuts. It had a deep earthy curry undertone. Rich and velvety. I could have just had that for dinner. Satiating and scrumptious. Simon was served the soup aerated with crispy bacon and apples. It was just as good. Anything with bacon, right?

I can go through the tasting menu, but I’m not. See Bill Burge’s review at STLBites . Spot on as usual.

What I want to talk about was my dinner. The tarragon gnocchi with wild mushrooms, truffled, greens, parsnips and sweet potatoes. oh.my.god.

First off, if you have never had gnocchi at Niche, do your self a favor and go. The very first time I went to Niche was within the first few days Gerard opened the door. I hadn’t even met Simon yet. I just finished a gut rehab at our Benton Park house and G had finished the restaurant. I remember being so excited when I went looking at the house, seeing the posted occupancy permit and liquor license in what is now Niche. I didn’t know what or who was going in there at the time. All I knew is that having a restaurant/wine bar in my back yard was a plus…signed on the house that day. A dear friend and I stopped in for a light dinner. He had the gnocchi. He is just about a finicky as they come with regards to food. He knows what’s good and what he likes. Niche gnocchi was put on that list that evening. Never had he tasted gnocchi so light and tender…full of flavor. Little puffs of amazing-ness.

Last night, I ordered the gnocchi thinking I would re-live that night. I didn’t. What I was served was a gastronomic wonder in it’s own right. (too strong of words???…nah) The gnocchi were made with a bit of chickpea flour and had a golden brown crust. They were studded with fragrant tarragon, served with a medley of wild mushrooms (morels, trumpets, oyster, hen of the woods were some I think i recognized in between shoveling it in), truffles and a rich truffled oil sauce. Jumbled up in the mix were some greens and tiny diced parsnips…maybe a turnip…I can’t remember. All I know is that those gnocchi and mushrooms made the favorite dish list at Niche.

I ordered the chocolate cake with Tahitian vanilla ice cream and Simon got the coconut kulfi. Lucky for me Simon doesn’t like tropical flavors and I do…so we did the old switch-a-roo and everyone went home happy.

 

The 2008 Acres U.S.A. Conference March 2, 2008

Filed under: Farms, The Cheesemonger, Travel, What We Eat — Annie @ 3:12 pm

Mark your calendar . . .
The 2008 Acres U.S.A. Conference
Thursday-Saturday, Dec. 4-6, 2008
Pre-Conference Intensive Study Options, Dec. 2-3, 2008
Hyatt Regency Union Station, St. Louis, Missouri

The annual Acres U.S.A. conference sets the standards for innovation and learning. It is where you find farmers and consultants from every side of eco-farming who come together to share their experience and expertise. Attend the non-stop event, learn the latest in cutting-edge technology and methods, and return home ready to make your farming operation the best it can be.

 

Pricey Pork February 25, 2008

Filed under: The Cheesemonger, What We Eat — Annie @ 9:40 am

I am a lover of all meats. I didn’t realize how much of a meat eater I was until I tried to decrease my consumption for health reasons. I love all things pork. If I see a charcuterie plate on a menu, ten to one I get it. There is a big push for in house meats these days (YaY!). But I wondered what everyone else thought of cured meats. What are some of your favorite? Do you make your own? Where do you get it? Local? or do you have it shipped to you.

This week Si got a beautiful piece of Spanish jamón ibérico de bellota. Oh, my. It’s soo good. This ham is from free-range pigs that roam oak forests (called la dehesa) along the southern border between Spain and Portugal, and eat only acorns . The exercise and the diet has a significant impact on the flavor of the meat; the ham is cured for 36 months. I think it tasted like peanut brittle…rich nutty, buttery flavor. Delicious!

It costs $159.00/lb!!!!!!!!! Holy Lord! That is an expensive ham sandwich.

You can get a $110 kobe/foie burger in some spots…now St. Louis has the $150 dollar hoagie.

Crazy.

 

Phoenix, Arizona. Better in the winter. February 22, 2008

Filed under: Mi Familia, The Cheesemonger, Travel, What We Eat — Annie @ 1:40 pm

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We have been to Phoenix once before this trip. It was in the heat of the summer and we were not thrilled. We are not desert people. We like lush greenery, tall trees and seasons. Simon’s parents moved out there last Spring and have been hinting at us to follow suit.

Nope.

One thing I do love are mountains. I had the joy of spending extended periods of time in the White Mtns. in NH and VT. I fell in love. As we approached Phx, I was able to reach across a sleeping Cheesemonger and take some quick snaps of the interesting landscape. I’m not Ansel Adams, but I do like this snapshot. The mountain range in the background covered in snow and the sprawling mesas in the forefront give you a hint of what to expect when you land.

My goal for this trip was to simply spend time with family (especially a 2 year old blond headed cookie monster) jax.jpg

We found Phx in February much more tolerable and easy on the eyes. The once brown, chokingly dusty, terrain has developed a thin green veneer…multi colored cacti and trickling mountain streams. Now this is doable.

Our second goal was to eat. And eat we did. 5lbs later I am cursing Kevin Binkley. (more on that dinner to come. writing about 25 courses is time consuming)

We stopped at AZ Wines after we de-planed. az.jpg This place has lots to offer. We found their prices very reasonable and staff knowledgable and laid back. The joint had a full bar and a living room. Decked out with a flat screen TV and leather sofas. Who’d ever want to leave?? We had brought a case of wine with us, so we didn’t pick anything up. But we did take Si’s mom around and point out some winners for purchase at a later date. Lots of local brews were on hand at this store as well. If you are ever in Carefree, AZ…stop in and pick something up. They have great classes too.

For lunch, Big Earl’s. 59.JPGA former filling station turned burger joint. Reminded me of Austin kitsch. Burgers were great. Fries even better.

It was the bar we went to for drinks later that night that fueled my love affair with Scottsdale. AZ 88 . If you are wondering what happened to all the fabulous gay men from Club 54 in NYC….look no further. You just have to remember that they are all over 50 now….but none the less fabulous. (Hence the nickname GAY-Z 88).

An appropriate mural hung above the bar during Valentine’s Day week.love.jpg

**photo not taken on night of visit…daytime view pictured here. Still a fabulous mural done by local artist.

At first I couldn’t put my finger on what I loved about this place. Was it the local art? the amazing bathrooms? The simple, yet delicious food that is served to 1 am? The diverse crowd packing the place to the gills? Yes, yes, yes, and yes. We arrived early…around 8ish. The place had a large amount of senior citizens present. (Scottsdale/Phx is full of them!) I found it strange, but upon closer inspection, these were fabulous little old ladies and extravagant gay couples dining before they head out the theatre (located just across the park). Then, a wave of middle aged gay men arrived….looking fierce. When 9 o’clock hit, the flood gates opened. Dinner before hitting the dance clubs located a couple streets over. The buzz of the restaurant was amazing. The bar was packed and getting a table was even harder. We waited over an hour. We didn’t mind…we loved the people watching and were enjoying our spots at the bar. (and my brother in law didn’t make reservations). Once seated we took a quick glance at the menu and found a very unique, yet simple choices: burgers, salads, light apps and decandant desserts. I opted for the hell fire chips…perfectly cooked house-made chips with shaved blue cheese and hot sauce. Delish! As we finished up our little plates and had one more round, the late night young and hip of Scottsdale popped in. Feirce little art majors (who I assume were at the art opening at the Scottsdale Museum of Contemp. Art) popping in to get their long night started. Oh, to be young and feirce.

 

Sorry for the delay February 18, 2008

Filed under: The Cheesemonger — Annie @ 3:20 pm

Upon return from Phx…life is just moving a mile a minute.  Will post more as I have some free time coming up tomorrow!!  Hope everyone is doing well.

 

This is how I know he loves me February 6, 2008

Filed under: The Cheesemonger — Annie @ 9:42 pm

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The picture you see before you represents how very much the cheesemonger loves me. I may not get diamonds or fancy trips to France….I get a big wedge of Grandpa Ed!!! Lovingly delivered by Cheesemaker Neville McNaughton yesterday afternoon. For those of you not familiar with Neville McNaughton, he is the head cheesemaker at Saxon Homestead Creamery in Cleveland, WI. If you are not familiar with Saxon Homestead Creamery, make sure you take a minute to visit their website.

Started by 3 farming families, they have created a community that focuses on ‘life-enhancing nature family business’.

Saxon’s little corner of the natural world was formed thousands of years ago. Eight inches of top soil sits on red clay loam, deposited by the lake on glacial till, sitting on limestone dominated, fast draining Karst soil. The clay loam holds moisture for our pastures. This makes for great pastureland touched by moist breezes off Lake Michigan. Other great cheesemaking regions of the world have Karst soils — the Auvergne, Southern Italy, St. Nectaire and even Roquefort, but none has topsoil on clay or a lake as big and beneficial as ours.

Grandpa Ed is startes out it’s life as Big Ed, a young, mild raw cow milk’s cheese. It is named after Ed Klessing, founding father of Saxon. It is a clean rind cheese which means it get’s it’s bottom wiped meticulously in order to have an immaculate rind. As time passes, Neville picks out some of the BEST Big Ed’s and sets them aside for aging….to create Grandpa Ed. These little buddies are aged for a full year and develop a robust flavor. As of now, Grandpa Ed will not be available until 2009…..except for that big hunk you see before you. Talk about a lucky girl. We are going to Phoenix on Friday to visit Simon’s folks…and Grandpa Ed is coming with us! You can’t just leave him home alone!!!

Oh….the beauty of cheese.

 

it’s times like this that i know why i married a cheesemonger February 6, 2008

Filed under: The Cheesemonger — Annie @ 11:18 am

stay tuned to find out about the FABULOUS gift my hubby brought me last night…straight from the hands of Neville McNaughton!  It’s so good, it’s even traveling with us to Phoenix on Friday.

 

Shameless plug February 5, 2008

Filed under: The Cheesemonger — Annie @ 8:57 pm

My adorable husband is interviewed in this month’s Sauce Magazine.

pg. 13.  OOHH!  So cute!

 

Great cheese recipe February 5, 2008

Filed under: The Cheesemonger, What We Eat — Annie @ 10:58 am

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1 lb of Five Year Cave Aged Gouda cheese (known as Cow Candy in our household)

1lb of spicy Hungarian Sausage

1 very sharp knife

2 bottles of Four Vines Zinfandel

Super nice people to share it with.

Enjoy!

 

Cheese Tip #1: February 5, 2008

Filed under: The Cheesemonger — Annie @ 10:05 am

When buying cheese, it’s best to find a reliable source, such as a specialty market, cheese shop, or gourmet foods store that specializes in cheeses. Often, your local farmer’s market and a cheese maker’s Web site are excellent resources, as you will often speak directly to the cheese makers, who will ensure that the products are in the best possible condition. When using a retail store, you will want to make sure that the staff is knowledgeable and that cheese turnover is swift. St. Louisans are lucky:  we have cut-to-order or cut-and-wrap retailers….even their own Cheesemonger!!